I am still unable to get the manifold off. My car is also an automatic, I did remove the heat shield and the water pipe which made it a little bit easier (I suppose).

the best fix is to use the cast ones....they will last forever. If you break a stud off there is a very good chance that you are going to have to pull the head to remove the broken stud. Shut up and kiss me.

Hey Aaron, long time no post, where have you been? I plan to take pics to document the removal so they can be posted for other member's benefit. the realize i'll do the whole exhaust black.
The ends are secured with stainless steel ties - I found using a vice grip made it easier to tighten them up. Got more questions? Is there something I'm missing? I love retro cars but my 944 is the pick of the bunch for me. It is best if you can do this over a few days and heat cycles before you attempt to remove everything. 944 Forum › 944 Forums › 944/2 › Exhaust Manifold Removal (Moderators: XxSteve944onlinexX, IAN - 944ONLINE) ‹ Previous Topic | Next Topic › Pages: [1] 2 : Send Topic Print: Exhaust Manifold Removal (Read 2797 times) Up On Ramps. I put some on my 944 a month ago and torqued down the nuts, no leaks yet. Its very difficult to get the manifold off with the studs still in the head, this is because there is not much room to pull the manifold out towards the frame rail to clear the studs. Next, safely raise and support the vehicle. Removing the bellhousing from the Porsche 944 engine is not as complicated as it may seem - such as in this situation with my replacement engine. ... engine removal time; exhaust; exhaust manifolds; … I am sure putting them back on will be much easier with the engine out of the car. I just got back inside from putting my entire exhaust back on. There is not a lot of room to work between the head and the fender but if you move a couple of components you can remove the manifolds.

There doesn't seem to be enough room to get a good grip on the nuts on #2 and #3. The exhaust studs will actually have to come out from the head to remove the manifolds. After reading numerous posts, the Porsche workshop manual and Clarks Garage. Did some more reading.

I got them off - I used a some heat, kroil, and a long cold chisel with a three pound hammer. Use a 12mm socket from below (red arrows) and a 13mm wrench from above (yellow arrows) and remove the nuts and bolts. I just put the Exhaust manifolds back on this weekend....after having pulled the engine, and putting it back together. I will be removing the cross member and dropping it out the bottom. These bolts can be a pain to remove. It is easier to remove the number two and three manifold first. ??? If you break off a stud there is a good chance you are going to have to pull the head to remove the broken stud. Some of the nuts had a little rust on them, but all the studs looked perfect. if u remove the header and just take it to someone, it should cost maybe $20? All that's left is the injectors in the manifold and the manifold itself. Remove all the engine studs also using the double bolt method as it makes moving the manifolds around much easier: Click on my boobs if you are interested (. Remove both nuts and washers from the flange and then double nut (red arrows) one stud at a time. I have disconnected all vacuum lines and the throttle cable. And looking good with the heat shield installed! How hard should I be striking the manifold with the rubber mallet? Attacked them at an angle and got them to spin after a couple of solid hits. Or, see what other questions readers have asked about this article... Porsche 944 Turbo (951) Technical Articles, Page last updated: Thu 10/29/2020 06:50:19 PM, safely raising and supporting your vehicle. Haha, "Atomic Batteries to Power, Turbines to Speed, Ready to move out! I suppose I just need to use a little more love with the rubber mallet and if I break the manifold, then I will be in the market for a used one. Installation is the reverse of removal. As previously stated, there is one bolt connected to an L bracket under the union of the manifold. You should not need to use that much force. If I take the header all the way off, will I have enough give in the attachment to the pipe lower down the exhaust system, or will I have to disconnect the header at both the manifold and the lower pipe? obv tis goes without saying remove the coolant pipe with a COLD ENGINE so there is less pressure, the 6 exhaust bolts at the collectors (end of the manifold) and have a friend pry down the lower exhaust (they are on rubber hangers) whilst you remove the headers by hand. I had no problem removing the steel nuts. 944 Forum › 944 Forums › 944 Turbo › 951 exhaust manifold gasket replacement (Moderators: XxSteve944onlinexX, IAN - 944ONLINE) ‹ Previous Topic | Next Topic › ... My thoughts were they would round off easier on removal. When I removed the original engine I detached it from the bellhousing in the car and removed the clutch pressure plate bolts through the starter motor hole -. I was so wrapped up in the engine removal that I totally forgot to take pics. I have tried using leverage by grabbing on the drivers side of the intake with no luck. The other question I'm facing is whether I'm going to have to vent the cooling system when reinstall the heater pipe? I don't want to do and damage. Sometimes it can take a while for this to loosen the rust but then using the ratchet wrench, they were easy to remove, he said. The writer started by WE-40ing the nuts. But sent back in the bottom in half the time.

So my mechanic noticed I've got a manifold-side exhaust leak coming from the exhaust gasket, between cylinders 3 and 4. don't remember which nuts are the hard ones...but i think either #3 or #2, there's no way u can get a ratcheting wrench in. I took off the power steering pump, ac compressor, alternator, headers, radiator, and driver side motor mount. You've obviously missed a bolt somewhere, I would continue to check everything until you've found it. There was an article about this and installing a 3" MSDS or Bursch header in an Excellence mag sometime back. leverage is your friend. So I did the gaskets today on my header (with some help from the old man). What is the best method to attack the removal of the exhaust manifolds? Its just behind and below the dip stick bracket on the S1 (8v) motors. Pelican Parts Catalog for Porsche, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, MINI and More. As I'm fitting the later versions I wanted to cover them in heat wrap before installing. These bolts can be a pain to remove. 85.5 5spd,LSD,Full Sachs Clutch Kit,Throttle Cam,Bursch Header, catless, Borla muffler, back-lit gauges,Bilstein rear shocks,KYB strut inserts, Strut Brace, 944online PRFM chip, 15' factory BBS's and 16" D90's,rebuilt motor,reworked head,turbo valve springs,raised compression,WebCam grind #274. Pulling the tops of the Y's together?

Loosen the engine mount bolts on the right hand side! I hope to have the engine out of the car sometime in the next couple of weekends (limited time to work on it during the week). I attached the engine hoist loop from the alternator bracket using the threaded hole for the water return rail.

"&&&&1986 944 NA black/black&&1984 928S Flying Purple People Eater&&2000 911 Carerra cabriolet &&1980 924 turbo-gone but not forgotten&, I second the Easy with the engine out comment, Had no problems.
8 to the head, one on the drivers (us) side block. I didn't end up cutting the gaskets, I just pulled the headers all the way off the studs.I found that unbolting the headers from the collectors was enough to get the headers off the studs. I have attempted an open end wrench to loosen them and after the wrench slipped off once, I stopped, I am afraid of rounding off the nuts. I left the hood on. The exhaust manifolds on the S cars are quite different to the 8v. )( .). It wasn't hard. I've been hunting down an intermittent idle issue on TheHoff since our last Brand Hatch excursion - which led not only to testing & replacing parts but also eliminating others and making one completely from scratch! There is a coolant line that runs along the top of the exhaust manifolds that you will need to remove. Even if the gaskets have a sealant on them, the intake should start to move and break free before the engine will start to shift.

There is not much room to double nut the studs with the washers on (red arrows). I've tried tapping it with a rubber mallet, but for the life of me I cannot get it to budge. Headers are difficult to take off. �Even if the gaskets have a sealant on them, the intake should start to move and break free before the engine will start to shift. After soaking the heat wrap in water, it was simply a matter of winding it around the manifolds - I used a 5m length for each. Can you elaborate on the bracing? but if you really want to remove the studs, you could use the double nut method but that is also unnecessary, the studs themselves on the end have a allen wrench key. You should be prepared to have a few break. The exhaust is actually two manifolds, one for the number two and three cylinders (red arrows) and one for the number one and four (yellow arrows). any mexican exhaust shop would be able to do it for dirt cheap, orale calmado compa! It is easier to remove the lower connections first, as this will give you some wiggle room when removing the exhaust manifolds from the head. Please see our article on safely raising and supporting your vehicle. I have lifted hard enough that it shifts the engine. You can see in the photo that I have removed several other components for photographic purposes; you do not need to do this but removing the camshaft cover will give you a lot more room to work. Pelican Parts Catalog for Porsche, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, MINI and More. So that wasn't the issue. It is easier to remove the lower connections first, as this will give you some wiggle room when removing the exhaust manifolds from the head.


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